Cobra Towed Home Tonight

[CobraChick]

Hey, had to have my Cobra towed home tonight. I know that we have a couple of Ford techs on here so wanted to get some thoughts on what the problem could be. Symtoms and repairs already made:
1) Car wasn't holding charge so we replaced battery
2) Battery light stayed on, but radio was still dead. Checked starter solenoid showed signs of burn on positive post - replaced starter soleniod.
3) Took car down and had the alternator checked. Was told the alternater was not putting out charge. - replaced the alternator.
4) Car started and drove it approx 7 miles. Left the car sitting for approx 1 hr but car wouldnt crank - as if dead battery - jumped the car and it cranked - showing volts reading 10-12 but when i turned on lights etc.. volts dropped. attempted to drive home - car rpms rised above 1050. Car started feeling light in the accelator - no bottom end. Noticed oil pressure bouncing to 15-20 and back up to 60. Car starting hesitating and died.

Checked the car oil level - fine.
thinking to pull the distibutor and check gears and shaft for any binding.
Fuse links a possible issue


Any ideas??

[1993cobra]

First off sorry to hear your having problems with the cobra so soon. Get another person to check to alternator and battery.If it is not charging more than likely the regulator on the back of the alternator is bad, if it is charging you probably need a battery, the solienoid was getting hot from low voltage. Or check for one big short, but if there was a short you should have blown fuses or hot / smoking wiring. Charge the battery up and then check it with a load tester. Sounds to me like alternator/regulator, I have bought parts that didn't work when new. Im sure you will get some other opinions from the others.


kevin

[SVT93BLACKSNAKEFL]

First, you need to charge the battery and have it tested. Then once the condition of the battery has been determined then. Install it in the car and get yourself a digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) 15.00 at local autoparts store. Check the voltage across the battery terminals - red to pos - black to ground. Note the reading. Start the car and let it idle. Take the same reading you just made again. Battery voltage should be about 12.5 volts - voltage with the car at idle should be 13.5 average. If not then you have a bad alternator. If it is then while the car is idling turn on the headlights, (bright) then the A/C and turn the blower fan on high. Check your voltage now... the alternator should maintain your voltage level... if it drops off you need an alternator. Any questions, just feel free to ask...

[BADBOY]

THAT WILL BE 1.0 DIAG.

[SVT93BLACKSNAKEFL]

In addition to what I said earlier, there is nothing wrong with your distributor. Every thing your car is doing is pointing to a bad alternator. A fuseable link is a possibility, but not common.. not to be ruled out... the two thickest wires that plug into your alternator along with the little thin wire are the two wires that have fuseable links. the two #10 wires are parrallel and if you trace them out you will find they lead to the solenoid on the drivers fender.

I have replaced my old 2G alternator on my car for the 3G. The old 2G is barely enough for a Cobra without any add ons. I have an MSD, converted my clutch fan to a 94 GT/Cobra electric fan. So the 3G is a must... the 2G puts out 75 - 80amps MAX the 3G is rated at 130amps.

Also guys if anyone wants the directions on how to install the 3G I will tell you, and also the 94 GT/Cobra Fan later guys

[BADBOY]

this by far i think is one of the best upgrades you can do for your car,the stock alt barely can handel a/c and headlight operation.
Here is a list of vehicles that have the 3G alternator, most are 130A, but some might be 110A:

94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6

The stock 87-93 Mustang alt is a Motorcraft "G2" unit
with 5 speed cars having 65 amps and autos with 75amps.
The 94 and up Mustangs and most Fords use the Motorcraft "G3", some 130amp others 90amp.
You can choose to put the 90amp units as well. Anything is better that the "I have my lights on I can't run the a/c" 65 amper.

You can get one from advaced auto parts for around $125-130 with a lifetime warranty.ive seen these go for anywhere between $115-$150.just ask for one for a 95 v8 or v-6 mustang.you can also get higher output units that are 160 or even 200 amps,but these are not avalible at the local parts stores and are beefed up units.the 3g alt comes with a 60mm pulley.the stock 70 amp fox alt 2g pulley is 50mm you can use this for more charging at idle or go to a 44mm underdrive pulley.

You should upgrade the main power wire (to at least 4 gauge)...or you could melt the stock 10 Gauge wires... The stock Mustang has 2 10 gauge (black/orange) power wires, which connect to the + on the starter stolinoid. They could melt if used with the upgraded alt.i ran with the stock wires alone for a year and thats with a high powered stereo also,but i now have added a 4 gauge wire and circuit breaker for safety.

parts you'll need:
3g alt for 95 v8 or v-6 mustang
4 Gauge power wire from Pa-Performace.com $49 (comes with 120amp fuse & holder)or 4 gauge wire and 120 amp fuse or circuit breaker(i am useing stereo wire and circuit breaker avalibe at any stereo shop)you can also use a 4 gauge battery cable of the right length as it is cheap and already has ends attached to it.
a 1 1/2 inch bolt & nut

how to install:

DO NOT remove the existing 10AWG black/orange wire (connects to a green fuse link) from the starter relay. The yellow/white wire (connects through a brown fuse link) connects through the green fuse link and is needed for proper regulator control. By removing the black/orange wire, you have disconnected the yellow/white wire from the battery.

Leave the existing spade connector, splice into the stator wire (White/Black) with the new stator connector. The White/Black wire loops through the harness from the oval connector to the rectangular connector. Use an interlock connector to splice on to the stator wire. Get 2 battery cables. Your lengths will depend where you mount the fuse holder. Run one from the stud connector on the alternator (you'll have to crush it slightly side to side to make it fit within the stud's plastic insulator) to one side the fuse holder. Route the second wire from the other side of the fuse holder to the positive side of the battery(or on the solinoid on batt side). In this configuration, you could still use a 2G alternator because you haven't cut off the connector but you are no longer using the marginal 10AWG black/orange wire, but 4AWG battery cable.DO NOT remove the existing 10AWG black/orange wire (connects to a green fuse link) from the starter relay. The yellow/white wire (connects through a brown fuse link) connects through the green fuse link and is needed for proper regulator control. By removing the black/orange wire, you have disconnected the yellow/white wire from the battery.

you will have to grind down the alt. bracket down slightly for 3g to fit,but its not a big deal.also top bolt is possibly different thread.on my alt i had to run a drill bit through the bottom hole on the alt to get the bolt to go through.this could have been a casting defect though.

My Cobra has the stock alt on it, thats just how to do it

[CobraChick]

Thanks so much for the info. My husband had to go out of town for a few days, so will check out all of the items when he returns.

[BADBOY]

ANY UPDATES ON THE CAR ?

[COBRA CHICK]

No husband just got back in town last night. Will let you know what we find. Thanks

[BADBOY]

WELL ANY UPDATES NOW ?

[CobraChick]

We got it fixed, it was the wiring between the alternator and battery. It had a little crimp in it and had severed. An easy find after we removed the battery and starter solenoid. Running better than ever!!

[Guest]

thats a good thing

[BADBOY]

Thats a good thing to hear