#966 get a new motor/trans

[buddha]

Ya, something definitely when through that thing.............hose clamp, bolt, etc. You have to watch some of crap out there. Some of these guys buy whole project cars for a decent price and then part out. He probably got it this way not knowing anything about it. Or he's just a lying asshole.

I bought a ton of used stuff over the years, generally stuff that wasn't used very long or bolted up and never run. No real issues, but peoples opinions of what "barely used" or "mint" varies a bunch. The world is full of stupid people.

[69boss]

ya I bought it off ebay. I usually dont buy used parts but they dont make these anymore and honestly I got a little greedy when I saw the price and thought it was a real good deal I suppose I deserve this for going against my better judgment... lesson learned

its not a total loss I called up kenne bell and Im going to let them rebuild it Im sending it out tomorrow should take a few weeks to get it back

I already polished the airway pieces and did as good a job as you can with home polishing equipment. hopefully if will all go back together nicely after the rebuild

Ill keep you guys posted.

[69boss]

this is how I got the stuff, his idea of mint...










and after a little elbow grease...






supercharger compressor and drive unit are on their way to kenne bell where they will be rebuilt... looks like have to wait some more for this project to come to fruition

meanwhile I have been thinking of tackling the extra slack in the rear end

considering everything else that was wrong with the car when I got it I really shouldnt be surprised that the gears werent set up right right either...

it doesnt make any noises but it does clank going into gear sometime and when I rotate the driveshaft it seems to have almost 1/2" in free play... that cant be right??

[93svt#2779]

No that is not right. I also have too much "lash" in my rearend. I thought I heard somewhere that there should only be .006-.012 inches of lashing between the pinion gear and the main ring. Mine has had a set of 4:10 gears put into it and I am also afraid that they were not installed correctly. I have been looking into possibly rebuilding my rear but the cost could end up being more than I am comfortable with. I am also faced with the option of changing gears when I do the rebuild, so I am on the fence as to what to do at this time. I am interested to hear what you decide to do. If you decide to tackle a rebuild I would be curious as to what your cost would be and how much damage you may see upon teardown. Definitely keep us posted, thanks.

Sorry to hear about your SC purchase not going as planned. Unfortunately we have all had dealings with the dishonest seller, there is just too many of them out there for us not to have. At least it is not a complete loss. A little extra money, but at least it is salvageable. And in the end you will have what you wanted so that's got to be worth something right?...lol

[buddha]

What the hell, they install a bolt with a carpenters framing hammer? That's clearly what those marks are from.

At least it will be right when you get it back.

[specracer]

Glad your getting it fixed. Boy I wish I could have taken that apart like that, would have been MUCH easier to ship (ha).

[69boss]

I have never set up a rear end before and although I love working on the car and feel confident in my skills to tackle this job .... one,, Im getting a little tired of working on this car its been non stop since I got it and two,, for something as tricky as setting up the rear end correctly and exactly like i want it I have enlisted the help of my friend who actually sold me the motor. he races fox bodies for a living has a lot of experience setting up the cars for racing, his philosophy is inline with mine, he is meticulous and a perfectionist so Im going to let him handle the job..


we are going to put new gears in it because I dont want to risk noise or other issues or just messing with old parts that could become an issue later.

technically you could just reshim the ring and try to close the gap and decrease back lash but using old gears that have already been worn you might risk noise or other issues... once the gears are set up and ran for some time they wear into each other and you really shouldnt change the lash

of course if you decide to go this route the initial cost could be just a shim kit... but I will not risk all that work to save the cost of a ring and pinion


and so the cost so far is 270 for the motorsport gear kit (LMR) which includes gears shims bearing and seals and the oil and modifier and he is charging me 450 to set up the gears I also told him to replace the axel bearings another 40 bucks no labor charge for that since the axles have to come out anyway.

hope this helps

[69boss]

well forget everything I said previously I decided to do it myself

I took the rear apart and realized one thing although the backlash on my car was set up loose it was around 14 thousands, the driveshaft free play is not really indicative of a loose backlash. I had quite a bit of play in the driveshaft but when I took the diff cover off to actually check it it was much less in the gears than it appeared on the driveshaft... so if you have a loose driveshaft dont automatically assume its the backlash...

once i took everything out to my surprise it was all brand new, even the oil that came out looked like it had just been put in ... I ended up re shimming the diff to close the gap and changed the backlash to 8 thousands... it took only one 26 thousands shim to complete the job, and it made a small difference in the drive but the slight clanking issue is still there Im thinking its a clutch engagement issue now... its very slight and I can probably leave it like that, but it just annoys me that I cant figure it out.

the other thing I noticed was that when the axels were in the carrier there was some free play in those also i dont really know how much is normal but seeing how everything was new I assume its normal.. if fact thats where most of the driveshaft slack comes from when you move the driveshaft the gears engage almost right away the slack you feel in the driveshaft is where the carrier is turning before it contact the axels... or so it appears...

[93svt#2779]

the other thing I noticed was that when the axels were in the carrier there was some free play in those also i dont really know how much is normal but seeing how everything was new I assume its normal.. if fact thats where most of the driveshaft slack comes from when you move the driveshaft the gears engage almost right away the slack you feel in the driveshaft is where the carrier is turning before it contact the axels... or so it appears...

Thanks for the input, I find it very useful. The way you describe the slack from the driveshaft to the axels, that's my issue as well. I assumed it was my backlash, but after hearing what you had to say, I am not sure now what the fix will be. I don't know either how much "play" should be in the axle engagement... I would assume there should be none, or very little. I am going to do some research and see if I cant dig up something on this, now I am curious. If I find anything I will let you know. Keep up the good work my man, thanks again!

[69boss]

you are welcome and I will be very interested to know what you find out regarding the axles

I did some general search but nothing came up.

[93svt#2779]

OK, I have been doing a crap ton of reading. According to my book ( I have a 1993 mustang repair manual), the proper backlash for the pinion to main ring should be .008 -.015 with a preferred setting of .012-.015. So according to this information, your backlash was actually set correctly. I have found many different tolerances in the rear assembly including different runouts and backlashes. I can not for the life of me find a tolerance or acceptable lash in the axle to spider gear engagement. Everything I find tells me that the clutches in the differential are worn out and need to be replaced. This "clunk" I am finding to be a common issue with the ford trac-loc differentials, and more common on higher mileage vehicles, with multiple reports of clutch pack replacement fixing the issue. I don't know if you will find this info useful, but I figured you would find it interesting and possibly worth a look. After everything I have been reading and watching, I am not sure a rearend rebuild is something I want to tackle. I definitely give you some props on getting in there and doing it yourself.

[69boss]

thank you for the information it is very helpful indeed...

once you open the rear cover and get familiar with everything in there its really not that bad at all I cant imagine a clutch pack install would be much harder in fact the hardest part of setting up the rear end is the backlash and tooth wear pattern... even thats not hard just time consuming.. so if youre not changing gears or resetting backlash, just changing out clutches would be as easy as taking the diff out and throwing in some new clutches just make sure the shims go back exactly the same way...

Im not sure if the diff clutch pack is my issue as everything does look new but I guess its possible Im going to investigate the clutch theory a little more before coming back to the diff.

thanks again.

[69boss]

so the kenned bell is rebuilt and already on its way back to me.

I have to say this took a lot less time than I expected...

should receive it in the next few days...

[WillyB93]

Good deal, gonna slap it on or wait a little bit to install it?

[69boss]

oh ya the idea is to install it soon after I get it back, but I have another project holding up the lift that might be a little while,,, maybe next week. old cars, there is always some issues ...