Going to Change the Motor Mounts Tomorrow! Tips and Tricks?

tliss · Post by **tliss** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 2:29 pm

Well, a buddy and I are going to get the motor mounts changed out and the rest of the pieces back on the motor tomorrow in hopes of being able to finally start it back up and hear the new exhaust for the first time since it was installed two months ago. Any tips or tricks you guys can recommend? I've researched and read all kinds of things about doing this on a lift and whatnot...I, unfortunately, have to flat back this thing in the driveway. Where is the best point to jack the motor up...the main part of the oil pan or the smaller part toward the front? Any crazy things like welds or anything else on the motor mounts that I will have to fight through?

I am pretty nervous about jacking the motor and doing this, but I figure we'll fumble our way through it. I am hoping to have the car running again by the end of the day tomorrow.

This has been the worst exhaust install ever!

Tom

vinchez78 · Post by **vinchez78** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 2:40 pm

Godspeed

Mike S. · Post by **Mike S.** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 1:09 am

Front sump of the pan works fine. Put a wood block on the floor jack, and a folded towel on the wood to keep from marring the paint. You may have to un bolt the shroud to lift it enough so the fan won't run into the top. Use good jack stands, and take your time. Easy job.

-MJS

k98dave · Post by **k98dave** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 12:26 pm

Loosen the two bolts that go into the block on each mount a couple of turns before jack up the motor or you will have the motor slipping on the jack from the torque you put on those bolts top break them free. Then break free the big bolt on the k frame

93 Venom · Post by **93 Venom** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 12:39 pm

The driver side is the fun one. Sometimes the rack and pinon lines are in your way. If you have or can get a engine hoist is easier to lift and hold the engine up to replace the mounts.

tliss · Post by **tliss** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 2:03 pm

OK...mounts are are in! Was not a very hard job, but it took a while.

Also go the starter back in fairly easily. Now a new couple of problems.

I can't find the place where the oil dipstick enters the pan. Does someone have a pic of the spot? I didn't take it out...it was the guy that did my headers, so I never saw where it came from.

Second, the steerring shaft only goes on the steering box about 1/8 - 1/4 inch...nothing more. That doesn't look right to me. How far should it go on? Again, it was taken off by that other guy.

Last, the exhaust return tube that come up from the h-pipe has a bracket on it. It looks like it ties up to the last header bolt, but how? Someone have a pic of this? I am reattaching all of the smog equipment, so I didn't quite have everything...this may be yet another item I am missing.

Thanks,
Tom

WillyB93 · Post by **WillyB93** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:55 pm

tliss wrote:OK...mounts are are in! Was not a very hard job, but it took a while.

Also go the starter back in fairly easily. Now a new couple of problems.

I can't find the place where the oil dipstick enters the pan. Does someone have a pic of the spot? I didn't take it out...it was the guy that did my headers, so I never saw where it came from.

Second, the steerring shaft only goes on the steering box about 1/8 - 1/4 inch...nothing more. That doesn't look right to me. How far should it go on? Again, it was taken off by that other guy.

Last, the exhaust return tube that come up from the h-pipe has a bracket on it. It looks like it ties up to the last header bolt, but how? Someone have a pic of this? I am reattaching all of the smog equipment, so I didn't quite have everything...this may be yet another item I am missing.

Thanks,
Tom

The steering shaft goes on the rack and pinion far enough for a bolt to go through it and tighten up. If this is what you are talking about.

The exhaust normally has a stud type bolt for the factory headers, which has 2 nuts on it. One to tighten the header and another for the bracket to bolt up on the stud, may have to use it or fabricate something since the headers came with other bolts.

Mike S. · Post by **Mike S.** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:20 pm

The dip stick tube goes into the block just above the oil pan rail.

-MJS

tliss · Post by **tliss** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:11 pm

Thanks guys. I'll check it all out tomorrow.

On the exhaust return tube, I dont have that bolt. The car had all of the smog equipment off and had crappy long tubes. I may have to get it from the Mustang graveyard...

And yes, that's what I'm talking about on the steering. The shaft clamp barely gets on...so needless to say I'm nervous about leaving it that way because it seems like it will come off easily...

Tom

Post by **1993cobra** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:03 am

If the shaft isn't all the way on the bolt won't go through. And before you drive it try to pull, pry the shaft off, to be safe if aren't sure.

tliss · Post by **tliss** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:34 am

Yeah, I see the slot where the bolt is supposed to go...it is nowhere close to that and does not appear as thought it is going to get any closer. I haven't tried pulling the steering shaft down further, though. Do you think it would have some play in it where it could pull down after getting the clamp over the shaft? It was on there before, but I do not recall how far since I didn't take it off and don't have the mental picture of it.

Dammit, I hate trying to finish something someone else started!!

Tom

k98dave · Post by **k98dave** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:45 am

On the steering shaft, remove the bolt at the firewall end of the shaft and get the shaft started on the steering rack side. Insert a longer bolt in the firewall side shaft hole and use it to pry the shaft down. I had to tap one with a hammer to move the shaft down enough for the cross bolt to go thru on the rack side.

On the oil dip stick tube, feel along block just above where it meets the pan. The hole for the tube should be about under #7 cyl. ( 2nd from the firewall)

tliss · Post by **tliss** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 10:53 am

Thanks for the help guys! I'll take a peek at it when I get home this evening. Hopefully I'll be able to start the motor tonight!

Tom

tliss · Post by **tliss** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 9:09 am

OK...got the dipstick back in and was able to fire it up yesterday. Sounds good, but still needs a little work. Still have to get my hands on that last header bolt where the exhaust return tube bracket connects. Major exhaust leak there without the header bolt in.

Question on the steering link. Seems like the bracket the clamp is connected to is flexible and can stretch down onto the steering rack? Seems to be able to stretch that way, but want to be sure before I try it and break the damn thing...

Tom

WillyB93 · Post by **WillyB93** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 9:18 am

tliss wrote:OK...got the dipstick back in and was able to fire it up yesterday. Sounds good, but still needs a little work. Still have to get my hands on that last header bolt where the exhaust return tube bracket connects. Major exhaust leak there without the header bolt in.

Question on the steering link. Seems like the bracket the clamp is connected to is flexible and can stretch down onto the steering rack? Seems to be able to stretch that way, but want to be sure before I try it and break the damn thing...

Tom

The shaft should be somewhat flexible, might have to find a hammer and a good spot to tap on it to push it down the rest of the way. I change the rack and pinion on my red car before I sold it, seems I had a few issues getting the shaft to push back on the rack. I think there is only one way to put that on, if not make sure the steering wheel is straight, and the rack and pinion is even on both sides of the tie rod ends. If not you might have to count the turns in the rack and pinion and center the turns.
Might watch this to see if this helps understand the problem. http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_ur ... a9-U&gl=US