1993 Cobra Registry

BrettT wrote:This usually what happens after installing a blower....cooling issues. Romo, make the investment into a 3 Row radiator, Edelbrock Water Pump, 160 thermo, and either get an electric fan setup.. (you should do an alternator upgrade with a electric fan install) and or keep the stock fan....you'll have no worries afterwards.

Thanks brett! I'm going to order the Fluidyne three row direct replacement today. I picked up a 180 degree stat last night, you think a 160 will help me a little more? I'll pick one up tonight - can't hurt I guess. I hope to just replace the stat and radiator for now and replace the waterpump down the road....

Hopefully none of that crud is caked anywhere else in my system besides in the stock radiator.

I bought a two row aluminum rad with 1 inch tubes, have had it for about a year, replaced the previous owners 3 row due to a leak, researched 3 row rads, unless you have 1 inch instead of smaller tubes it'll crap out quicker because not enough coolant running through the smaller tubes. Can someone elaborate?

Romo93 wrote:

Z282SLO wrote:You still using the stock radiator? If so, I'd recommend an upgrade if you end up having to take things apart.

I like your thinking Zzzz!

I just drained my radiator and ALL the passages inside are freaking caked to hell! I'm not getting any flow in this thing..

I'm going to clean out the overflow tank and still replace the thermostat. Time to start researching after-market rads.

What you running Zzzz?

I have the Fluidyne high-performance radiator (see my post in response to your question in the #3754 video thread) which it appears you're going to get. An excellent choice.

After taking my Radiator and thermostat out, it appears my thermostat was "stuck" open. The back of the stat was actually bent a little bit.... So i was running wide open, now it makes sense why my top radiator hose was so hot. At least I got a new Fluidyne out of the deal!!!

vinchez78 wrote:I bought a two row aluminum rad with 1 inch tubes, have had it for about a year, replaced the previous owners 3 row due to a leak, researched 3 row rads, unless you have 1 inch instead of smaller tubes it'll crap out quicker because not enough coolant running through the smaller tubes. Can someone elaborate?

The usual advantage of using a three row vs a two row core is you get additional capacity for coolant. If the tubes in the two row are large, the capacity gain going to a three row may not be significant. However, the area exposed to cooling air will be increased so the cooling will be better with the three row. There is another area to consider that rarely gets mentioned. This is the number of fins per inch. The more fins the greater the cooling area and the more efficient the radiator becomes.

Romo93 wrote: There is another area to consider that rarely gets mentioned. This is the number of fins per inch. The more fins the greater the cooling area and the more efficient the radiator becomes.

I never even thought about that or knew that was an option!?

Good info Romo!

Temps are great while driving. (180) Idling is another story, still creeps up to around 3/4 after sitting at idle. My fan spins on the easy side, going to put a new fan clutch in and while I'm at it a new temperature sending unit. Trying to rule everything out before adding a high flow water-pump!

I'm going to check the actual temp as well as the stock gauge may just be F'd up.

Don't think I have any air in the system either...... Worst case scenario I have to change the waterpump as it might just be breaking down and not pumping as strong as it should be.

How hard is it to change the instrument cluster voltage regulator? I noticed when I turn the lights on the temp gauge goes up, turn them off and it goes down a little. Thinking this might fix that issue.

Atleast I'm going to have an all new cooling system!!

I feel you pain romo! 2946 sheared a exhaust bolt off and one of the meth nozzle is plugged. always something. Drove 1521 to work today sounded like a church mouse but nothing broke. Ha

bdecoy wrote:I feel you pain romo! 2946 sheared a exhaust bolt off and one of the meth nozzle is plugged. always something. Drove 1521 to work today sounded like a church mouse but nothing broke. Ha

It must feel real strange to drive a completely stock Cobra after driving a heavily modded one like your red.

Yes it kinda makes me want to do go pick up my gram and take her to bingo

bdecoy wrote:Yes it kinda makes me want to do go pick up my gram and take her to bingo

And you wouldn't even wake any of them up from their mid-day sleep fests!

New coolant temp sendor, air temp sensor and a new fan cluth and I'm now running at a very steady 180!!!

The fan clutch was toast - now I have a completely new coolant system minus a water pump.

Romo93 wrote:New coolant temp sendor, air temp sensor and a new fan cluth and I'm now running at a very steady 180!!!

The fan clutch was toast - now I have a completely new coolant system minus a water pump.

Might want to Knock on some Wood Bro! your asking for your water pump to go out!!

93svt#2779 wrote:

Romo93 wrote:New coolant temp sendor, air temp sensor and a new fan cluth and I'm now running at a very steady 180!!!

The fan clutch was toast - now I have a completely new coolant system minus a water pump.

Might want to Knock on some Wood Bro! your asking for your water pump to go out!!

I might do it over the winter, add a nice polished high flowing water pump while she's down for the winter. After all the work I did to the Cobra this week it's time to drive her and enjoy!!!

My arms are scratched to hell from squeezing arms through everything to tighten those fan clutch bolts to the water pump pulley. Looks like I was in battle with two pissed off cats....

I got my hands on a high output fan clutch - anyone else running one? The thing is much louder than the stock fan!!

Just cruised 100 miles and let it idle in a parking lot a few times and everything is running perfect, right around the 180 mark all day...